Paracas, about 250 km and 4 hours south of Lima, is where the desert meets the ocean. The Paracas National Reserve, created in 1975 and managed by SERNANP, the protected-areas service, covers 335,000 hectares of desert coast and sea, with cliffs, red beaches and flamingos; the entrance costs S/ 11.
From the port, boats go to the Ballestas Islands, which belong to a separate reserve of guano islands created in 2009. The trip takes about 2 hours, without landing, past the Candelabro, a large figure drawn on a hillside above the bay. On the islands you see sea lions, Humboldt penguins and thousands of seabirds: boobies, cormorants, Inca terns and pelicans.